I’m back in Britain after a relaxing break in the Middle East and it’s hard to miss that Christmas is nearly here. The main streets of my home city, Bristol, have an array of colourful lights and other decorations. Shopping centres are playing Christmas CDs on continuous loop. But much to my surprise, the city’s giant Christmas trees are still in place – they haven’t found their way to the homes of university students.
Despite being a Muslim state, I sensed a similar excitement in Dubai to Christmas - in all but name. The sprawling shopping malls that I talked about in earlier posts had some of the most impressive decorations I have seen in years. Tinsel adorned shops. The only thing missing was the word ‘Christmas’, instead shoppers were offered warm greetings for the ‘festive season’.
Even though ‘Happy Christmas’ is missing from festive banners, everyone in Dubai knows what all the fuss is all about. ‘Christmas’ craft markets are in full swing and soon the expats will mysteriously disappear for their holidays, even though Christmas Day and Boxing Day are not officially recognised in the country.
This hush, hush attitude to Western and Christian values has helped Dubai become so successful in wooing outside investors, while at the same time keeping the local Emiratis happy.
It’s the same thinking for the sale of alcohol, where only hotels and private members clubs can gain licenses for serving beers, wines and spirits. So what you find in Dubai is everything from pubs and wine bars ‘attached’ to plush five star plus residences. Yet, in reality it can at times be quite hard to spot the hotels that drinking venues are actually attached to – I was drinking in beach bars where there didn’t appear to be a hotel in sight. In the same way I walked into private members clubs without actually having to show a membership card!
As I left Dubai, the office Christmas parties were in full swing. Back, in Britain the boozy affairs that take over our town centres don’t look much different. The only thing missing is the sun, sea and sand.
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Monday, December 14, 2009
5,000 years of history to this modern city state
Arriving in Dubai the first thing that you notice are the towering skyscrapers built in the construction boom of the last few decades. The roads look like they have just been finished; cafés, hotels and restaurants appear as if they have just opened. Dubai is almost a dictionary definition for 'modern city'.
Yet beneath the glitzy veneer there is history to be discovered that dates back far earlier than the foundation of the United Arab Emirates 38 years ago.
On the outskirts of Dubai, evidence has been of civilization more than 5,000 years ago. At Al Qusais 13km north east of the centre, archeologists have discovered what is thought in 3,000-2,000BC to have been the largest settlement on the Arabian Gulf. Graves, skeletons, weapons, pottery and bronze utensils have all been found in recent years.
In Jumeira, 12km north west of downtown Dubai, is thought to be one of the most important sites in the UAE dating from around the 600s, when Islam was still in its infancy. Back then Jumeira was an important stop on the caravan route between Iraq and Oman. Far from being buried by new apartment and office developments these discoveries are being preserved; so far a ruler's house, shops and a number of individual shops have been found.
This early history of the emirate is wonderfully presented in the Dubai Museum down by the Creek waterway which runs through the heart of the old city. Housed in an old fort dating from the late 1700s, it is a fitting venue to tell the Dubai story. For its here that 100 people guarded what was then a small walled city. From the banks of the Creek grew the expanding emirate that greets visitors today.
Although Dubai was recorded as an important centre for pearl fishing in 1580, it really began to prosper in the late 1800s when dhows (traditional boats) from as far afield as India and East Africa anchored along the Creek.
Things gathered pace in the 1950s when the Creek was dredged so it could accommodate larger boats. It pioneered Dubai's development as a modern trade centre. Over the next few decades new port facilities were built and other important infrastructure was installed.
With the progress that has been made, the 1950s seems a long time ago. But at Dubai museum some of the traditional, simple shops, workshops and homes have been created from half a century ago. Against this backdrop, skyscrapers look like they are from another planet.
A new, modern souk area has opened down by Creek, providing stalls for tourists and locals alike to buy everything from crafts to gold. Yet some things haven't changed; the main transport across the waterways are with simple water taxis called Abras. The rickety little boats cost the equivalent of just a few pence to travel on. Blot out the tower blocks in the distance and the modern city seems a long way off.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
The Rome of the Middle East isn't burning just yet
“Bursting of the bubble leaves life in broken city state feeling like the last days of Rome.” This was the doom-ridden headline about Dubai that jumped out of the newspaper I was reading on a recent flight out to the Middle East. There was in fact very little positive about the emirate that could be drawn of the double page article in the Times.
What would greet me in Dubai? Burning skyscrapers? Abandoned sports cars? Expats fleeing with only the clothes they were wearing? Or would the whole of Dubai just have disappeared into the sea? After 10 days of doom and gloom in the English press, the last thing I expected was a civilization still functioning.
So, soon after arriving in the emirate, it came as a surprise to encounter hustle and bustle at Dubai Marina. The restaurant I had lunch with a friend was not packed but we got stuck in a traffic jam on the approach. Car parks were fairly full and people were walking around. Not everyone had done a runner it seemed.
What's more, the skyscrapers that define Dubai were still there. And, from the car window, I saw signs that not all construction had ceased. I'd only been in Dubai for a couple of hours and already there were signs of normality.
Over the course of a few days, I saw more evidence that things haven't totally seized up in the city state. We went to what must be some of the coolest bars in the world – it's hard to beat a cocktail bar on the 44th floor of a stylish hotel where you get breathtaking views over Dubai Marina.
We walked through the public areas of a top rate hotel on new artificial island called the Palm, built on land reclaimed from the sea (a clever ploy for creating more beach for tourists and residents to sunbathe on). The hotel itself, the Atlantis, boasts giant fish tanks (which you could also walk underneath) in the lobby and a water park where guests can swim with dolphins.
New shopping giant themed shopping centres are continuing to open – some with malls more than a mile long. We visited one that had different areas of the world relating to the travels of the Moroccan explorer Ibn Batuta. It included sections dedicated to India and China, with models of life size elephants and giant oriental boats. I'm not sure Ibn Battuta ever went to London, but there was a special Christmas craft market so naturally it was called 'Convent Garden' and there was a giant model of Big Ben and the Houses of parliament.
In another mall, there are giant indoor ski slopes, complete with ski lifts and even a ski-themed hotel with ski chalets overlooking the slopes. It made me laugh seeing people wearing thick ski coats and wooly hats – while outside it is boiling hot.
You can chill out on the hotel beaches during the day and then in the evening the beach bars open. And despite the apparent problems people (tourists and expats) are still out enjoying themselves. It must be very special to be able to call the Hilton beach club your local!
One evening we went down to see the world's tallest fountains, which are lit with brightly coloured lights and set to an array of tunes. The display, in front of the Burj (opens next month and is the world's tallest building) is nothing short of spectacular. Although quite what the nearby residents think of the noise from the jets of water is another matter!
Some parts of Dubai, like a mock Arabian souk with restaurants set around artificial canals feel a little bit like Disney. But this is Disney with class. All in all, it's incredible to think that around 30 years ago the emirate was pretty much just dessert.
Of course, not is entirely well in Dubai. But talking to people living out there now, you get the sense that the problems have been known for some years. In other words, the problems announced by Dubai World, are not entirely new. Many companies in Dubai have refused to do business with the Government for some time.
This position gives some indication as to how things will pan out in Dubai in years to come. It will continue to grow as a hub for companies working across the Middle East. Employees will have their homes in Dubai given all the facilities and then work in more restrictive places like Saudi Arabia during the week.
Dubai will also continue to grow as a top holiday resort – it has some of the best hotels in the world and lovely beaches are being created. Massive theme parks (which will dwarf Disney) are being created. There are already many top golf courses.
And it’s also getting easier to move around thanks to the new Dubai metro. (The Times article said no-one uses it, which is unfair given that only five stations are built. I traveled on it early evening and it was packed with people heading out to the vast shopping malls).
Drive around Dubai and you see developments where work won't hasn't yet started. It's true that some probably will never be completed. But Dubai is not unique in that around the world there has been a property crash. It's a fact of life that developers have gone under.
Dubai's economy is growing faster than Britain's and many companies out there (like the airline Emirates are posting good profits).
Matches have been struck but Rome isn't burning just yet. It hasn’t disappeared into the sea.
What would greet me in Dubai? Burning skyscrapers? Abandoned sports cars? Expats fleeing with only the clothes they were wearing? Or would the whole of Dubai just have disappeared into the sea? After 10 days of doom and gloom in the English press, the last thing I expected was a civilization still functioning.
So, soon after arriving in the emirate, it came as a surprise to encounter hustle and bustle at Dubai Marina. The restaurant I had lunch with a friend was not packed but we got stuck in a traffic jam on the approach. Car parks were fairly full and people were walking around. Not everyone had done a runner it seemed.
What's more, the skyscrapers that define Dubai were still there. And, from the car window, I saw signs that not all construction had ceased. I'd only been in Dubai for a couple of hours and already there were signs of normality.
Over the course of a few days, I saw more evidence that things haven't totally seized up in the city state. We went to what must be some of the coolest bars in the world – it's hard to beat a cocktail bar on the 44th floor of a stylish hotel where you get breathtaking views over Dubai Marina.
We walked through the public areas of a top rate hotel on new artificial island called the Palm, built on land reclaimed from the sea (a clever ploy for creating more beach for tourists and residents to sunbathe on). The hotel itself, the Atlantis, boasts giant fish tanks (which you could also walk underneath) in the lobby and a water park where guests can swim with dolphins.
New shopping giant themed shopping centres are continuing to open – some with malls more than a mile long. We visited one that had different areas of the world relating to the travels of the Moroccan explorer Ibn Batuta. It included sections dedicated to India and China, with models of life size elephants and giant oriental boats. I'm not sure Ibn Battuta ever went to London, but there was a special Christmas craft market so naturally it was called 'Convent Garden' and there was a giant model of Big Ben and the Houses of parliament.
In another mall, there are giant indoor ski slopes, complete with ski lifts and even a ski-themed hotel with ski chalets overlooking the slopes. It made me laugh seeing people wearing thick ski coats and wooly hats – while outside it is boiling hot.
You can chill out on the hotel beaches during the day and then in the evening the beach bars open. And despite the apparent problems people (tourists and expats) are still out enjoying themselves. It must be very special to be able to call the Hilton beach club your local!
One evening we went down to see the world's tallest fountains, which are lit with brightly coloured lights and set to an array of tunes. The display, in front of the Burj (opens next month and is the world's tallest building) is nothing short of spectacular. Although quite what the nearby residents think of the noise from the jets of water is another matter!
Some parts of Dubai, like a mock Arabian souk with restaurants set around artificial canals feel a little bit like Disney. But this is Disney with class. All in all, it's incredible to think that around 30 years ago the emirate was pretty much just dessert.
Of course, not is entirely well in Dubai. But talking to people living out there now, you get the sense that the problems have been known for some years. In other words, the problems announced by Dubai World, are not entirely new. Many companies in Dubai have refused to do business with the Government for some time.
This position gives some indication as to how things will pan out in Dubai in years to come. It will continue to grow as a hub for companies working across the Middle East. Employees will have their homes in Dubai given all the facilities and then work in more restrictive places like Saudi Arabia during the week.
Dubai will also continue to grow as a top holiday resort – it has some of the best hotels in the world and lovely beaches are being created. Massive theme parks (which will dwarf Disney) are being created. There are already many top golf courses.
And it’s also getting easier to move around thanks to the new Dubai metro. (The Times article said no-one uses it, which is unfair given that only five stations are built. I traveled on it early evening and it was packed with people heading out to the vast shopping malls).
Drive around Dubai and you see developments where work won't hasn't yet started. It's true that some probably will never be completed. But Dubai is not unique in that around the world there has been a property crash. It's a fact of life that developers have gone under.
Dubai's economy is growing faster than Britain's and many companies out there (like the airline Emirates are posting good profits).
Matches have been struck but Rome isn't burning just yet. It hasn’t disappeared into the sea.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
The potential for tourism is huge
There's mile upon mile of beautiful sandy beach in Oman. Yet the coast seems to be deserted for the most part of the day, save for the lone swimmer, a few joggers and couples staying in the international hotels taking a walk. So if you want to get away from everything, this is the place to head. And the sea is so clean to swim in.
But if the beach near my hotel in Qurum, Muscat, is anything to go by the sands come alive in the late afternoon. Out of what seems like no-where, the locals appear in their droves. Wearing replica football kits of the main European teams, they arrive for some serious sporting action. The beaches become alive with back-to-back mass games of football. And the players have thought of everything – they bring coloured vest tops so the two sides won't get confused and also mini goal nets. They are a friendly bunch and passers-by are invited to join in.
The large scale games of football are a sight to be seen and must involve literally hundreds of Omanis. Many of the beachfront cafes don't open until late afternoon to cater for the locals, making it clear who the businesses see as their main target market. Anywhere else in the world and the shacks would open in the morning to cater for Europeans.
It all goes to show that tourism is very much in its infancy in Oman. I'm told that the tourism ministry has been going only three years in fact. Although tourists have been coming for longer than that.
But the word I can't get off with Oman is “potential”. It has the infrastructure in the form of high class hotels and top resorts, yet I'm here in what is deemed the “high” season and the place doesn't seem overrun.
There is already a lot on offer for the tourist. For example, I joined a half-day trip around Muscat and saw the Sultan's wonderful palace which is covered in gold. We visited the amazing souk and fish market in Muttrah, near Muscat, where the fish were so fresh they were almost jumping off the counters.
But I think the country as a whole could make more of its history. It has quite a story to tell. The forts above the harbour in Muscat, for example, date from when the Portuguese held sway in the 1500s. They built their principal Naval base in the town. Later when the Portuguese were ousted with the help of the British (who were to have great influence in the 1800s), they were strengthened. Many are still used today to defend the Omani coast.
I also took a trip to Nizwa in the interior, about 100 miles from Muscat. To get to this area, you take the motorway through vast arid desert expanses. Modern towns have sprung up but there are still many surviving villages built on ancient foundations.
In the interior you also find forts, dating from the time when Muscat and Oman were great rivals. Nizwa fort, originating from the 1600s, took 12 years to build. It has a massive circular tower, sunk 30 metres deep to withstand vibrations; it offers a great overview of Nizwa and its souk.
These historic monuments have been lovingly restored and are in a good condition for their age.
What's missing is interpretation; the audio guides that you see elsewhere in the world are not there and the signage is very basic (often limited to room names e.g. kitchen). I also didn't really see any shops where you could buy a guidebook or postcards.
Oman's got its history, now it just needs to be bold and tell the world all about it. It has beautiful scenery and friendly people, this place will hit new heights when it opens itself up to interpretation. It has potential.
But if the beach near my hotel in Qurum, Muscat, is anything to go by the sands come alive in the late afternoon. Out of what seems like no-where, the locals appear in their droves. Wearing replica football kits of the main European teams, they arrive for some serious sporting action. The beaches become alive with back-to-back mass games of football. And the players have thought of everything – they bring coloured vest tops so the two sides won't get confused and also mini goal nets. They are a friendly bunch and passers-by are invited to join in.
The large scale games of football are a sight to be seen and must involve literally hundreds of Omanis. Many of the beachfront cafes don't open until late afternoon to cater for the locals, making it clear who the businesses see as their main target market. Anywhere else in the world and the shacks would open in the morning to cater for Europeans.
It all goes to show that tourism is very much in its infancy in Oman. I'm told that the tourism ministry has been going only three years in fact. Although tourists have been coming for longer than that.
But the word I can't get off with Oman is “potential”. It has the infrastructure in the form of high class hotels and top resorts, yet I'm here in what is deemed the “high” season and the place doesn't seem overrun.
There is already a lot on offer for the tourist. For example, I joined a half-day trip around Muscat and saw the Sultan's wonderful palace which is covered in gold. We visited the amazing souk and fish market in Muttrah, near Muscat, where the fish were so fresh they were almost jumping off the counters.
But I think the country as a whole could make more of its history. It has quite a story to tell. The forts above the harbour in Muscat, for example, date from when the Portuguese held sway in the 1500s. They built their principal Naval base in the town. Later when the Portuguese were ousted with the help of the British (who were to have great influence in the 1800s), they were strengthened. Many are still used today to defend the Omani coast.
I also took a trip to Nizwa in the interior, about 100 miles from Muscat. To get to this area, you take the motorway through vast arid desert expanses. Modern towns have sprung up but there are still many surviving villages built on ancient foundations.
In the interior you also find forts, dating from the time when Muscat and Oman were great rivals. Nizwa fort, originating from the 1600s, took 12 years to build. It has a massive circular tower, sunk 30 metres deep to withstand vibrations; it offers a great overview of Nizwa and its souk.
These historic monuments have been lovingly restored and are in a good condition for their age.
What's missing is interpretation; the audio guides that you see elsewhere in the world are not there and the signage is very basic (often limited to room names e.g. kitchen). I also didn't really see any shops where you could buy a guidebook or postcards.
Oman's got its history, now it just needs to be bold and tell the world all about it. It has beautiful scenery and friendly people, this place will hit new heights when it opens itself up to interpretation. It has potential.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
A good burger at a hotel fit for the king
Last night I took a ride out to what is regularly voted the best hotel in the Middle East. Walking through the main front doors of the Al Bustan Palace hotel, on the edge of Muscat, you can quickly see why it wins people over. The lobby, standing at 38-metres high, resembles that of a large cathedral. At the centre of this impressive large room is a crystal chandelier and fountain.
The hotel features some 800,000 tonnes of marble from across Europe and towering white pillars hand crafted in India. It was built between 1983 and 1985 for a regional Gulf summit and has just benefited from a complete refurbishment.
It was out of my price range to stay the night, but I couldn't stop myself from testing out one of the restaurants. Not fancying the seafood buffet, I opted for a Caprese salad and the chef's beef burger. Perhaps it was because I was dining early, but the service was excellent and I had very close attention. And I can honestly say, it was one of the best burgers I have ever had – the succulent mince melted beautifully in my mouth. Including a small still water and service the bill came to £24 – money well spent, I say.
After eating I went for a walk around the resort's grounds. It was by now dark, but the main features of the vast network of pools were lit up. Staff were going round lighting hundreds of candles. The mountains, where guests enjoy short escorted walks during the day, behind me also had a glow to them from the flood lights.
I settled for a cool pint of beer in the bar and restaurant on the hotel's private beach. By candle light I read in my guidebook about the history of Oman. And that included the story of the Al Bustan Palace Hotel; a hill had to be blasted away and the village of Al Bustan (once a leper colony) was re-located nearby. The villagers enjoy improved facilities and hotel guests get to relax in a wonderful location. A win: win situation.
There's so much that could be written about hotels in Muscat. Designers of new resorts compete with each other to offer the guests the wow factor. But there's also a lot that could be said about the expats who hang out in them. At the Al Bustan there was a lavish birthday party for a group of expats. Most of the international hotels have a British themed pub. As there are no independent bars in Oman, this is the place where expats go out in the evenings. I'm sure someone must have designed a pub crawl that links all the hotels together.
Having checked out a couple of the big hotels, I think the Al Bustan has the biggest appeal – its got the facilities that westerners like but at the same time boasts beautiful Islamic architecture. I'm going to start saving up for my next trip to Oman!
The hotel features some 800,000 tonnes of marble from across Europe and towering white pillars hand crafted in India. It was built between 1983 and 1985 for a regional Gulf summit and has just benefited from a complete refurbishment.
It was out of my price range to stay the night, but I couldn't stop myself from testing out one of the restaurants. Not fancying the seafood buffet, I opted for a Caprese salad and the chef's beef burger. Perhaps it was because I was dining early, but the service was excellent and I had very close attention. And I can honestly say, it was one of the best burgers I have ever had – the succulent mince melted beautifully in my mouth. Including a small still water and service the bill came to £24 – money well spent, I say.
After eating I went for a walk around the resort's grounds. It was by now dark, but the main features of the vast network of pools were lit up. Staff were going round lighting hundreds of candles. The mountains, where guests enjoy short escorted walks during the day, behind me also had a glow to them from the flood lights.
I settled for a cool pint of beer in the bar and restaurant on the hotel's private beach. By candle light I read in my guidebook about the history of Oman. And that included the story of the Al Bustan Palace Hotel; a hill had to be blasted away and the village of Al Bustan (once a leper colony) was re-located nearby. The villagers enjoy improved facilities and hotel guests get to relax in a wonderful location. A win: win situation.
There's so much that could be written about hotels in Muscat. Designers of new resorts compete with each other to offer the guests the wow factor. But there's also a lot that could be said about the expats who hang out in them. At the Al Bustan there was a lavish birthday party for a group of expats. Most of the international hotels have a British themed pub. As there are no independent bars in Oman, this is the place where expats go out in the evenings. I'm sure someone must have designed a pub crawl that links all the hotels together.
Having checked out a couple of the big hotels, I think the Al Bustan has the biggest appeal – its got the facilities that westerners like but at the same time boasts beautiful Islamic architecture. I'm going to start saving up for my next trip to Oman!
Oil money well spent.... for a change
The Omanis welcome overseas tourists with open arms. They are a very accommodating people and nothing seems like too much hassle. Taxis, for example, arrive on time and drivers don't try to rip visitors off. In the souks stallholders launch in to sales pitches, but you don't feel the pressure to by that you get in more touristy Middle Eastern countries (in Egypt they literally chase you down the street!).
Yet despite this welcome, tradition is important for the Omanis. Oman is a Muslim country and, although moderate in outlook, visitors are expected to keep covered up, unless on the beach. Guidebooks advise that men should wear trousers when in public; in shopping malls, for example, and souks. Sitting in Costa coffee, I'm not sure if I'm offending by wearing shorts? - in my defence, I can see the sea!
Staying with the theme of traditions, everyone speaks highly of the king in Oman – His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said. The front page of today's Times of Oman (the English language newspaper) has three stories about the king on the front page; he's received a cable of thanks from Saudi Arabia for the condolences to the victims of the country's heavy rains, a delegation came to visit from Egypt, finally there's a piece on His Majesty's shooting teams.
While the above three examples would probably be considered non-stories (and certainly not for the front page) in England, I sense a genuine love for the king. That his portrait hangs in shops and on gantries on main roads means nothing, of course, as so many countries around the world force their citizens to do this (the people of North Korea know nothing else, for example). It is rather, the private conversations amongst Omanis and expats that carry weight. And many outsiders certainly speak highly of him.
But when you consider the progress achieved since the 1970s (described in an earlier posting), there is every reason to celebrate the achievements of the king. While poverty does of course exist, many Omanis have benefited significantly from the sultanates rag to riches journey.
There are too many examples around the world of oil rich countries that faced violent struggles over the control of lucrative natural resources. Many living in the Niger Delta no little else but war. Perhaps the reason for peace in Oman is because the king has chosen to spend oil revenues on projects that benefit the Omani people.
In Muscat, I went to see the splendid Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the second largest mosque in the world. Opened in 2001, no expense has been spared in creating a vast complex that caters for 20,000 worshippers. The main hall has a grand chandelier that weighs eight tonnes and a one-piece carpet from Iran, it has 38 colours, weighs 21 tonnes and was made by 600 women weavers over four years. Like other buildings in Oman, the complex is thoroughly modern, but is distinctly Arab in character.
Driving around Oman is also a comfortable experience as the majority of roads look as is they have probably only just be completed. The truth is that they probably have.
But alongside the new roads, the old dirt tracks remain. That's Oman for you – tradition with a modern twist.
Yet despite this welcome, tradition is important for the Omanis. Oman is a Muslim country and, although moderate in outlook, visitors are expected to keep covered up, unless on the beach. Guidebooks advise that men should wear trousers when in public; in shopping malls, for example, and souks. Sitting in Costa coffee, I'm not sure if I'm offending by wearing shorts? - in my defence, I can see the sea!
Staying with the theme of traditions, everyone speaks highly of the king in Oman – His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said. The front page of today's Times of Oman (the English language newspaper) has three stories about the king on the front page; he's received a cable of thanks from Saudi Arabia for the condolences to the victims of the country's heavy rains, a delegation came to visit from Egypt, finally there's a piece on His Majesty's shooting teams.
While the above three examples would probably be considered non-stories (and certainly not for the front page) in England, I sense a genuine love for the king. That his portrait hangs in shops and on gantries on main roads means nothing, of course, as so many countries around the world force their citizens to do this (the people of North Korea know nothing else, for example). It is rather, the private conversations amongst Omanis and expats that carry weight. And many outsiders certainly speak highly of him.
But when you consider the progress achieved since the 1970s (described in an earlier posting), there is every reason to celebrate the achievements of the king. While poverty does of course exist, many Omanis have benefited significantly from the sultanates rag to riches journey.
There are too many examples around the world of oil rich countries that faced violent struggles over the control of lucrative natural resources. Many living in the Niger Delta no little else but war. Perhaps the reason for peace in Oman is because the king has chosen to spend oil revenues on projects that benefit the Omani people.
In Muscat, I went to see the splendid Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the second largest mosque in the world. Opened in 2001, no expense has been spared in creating a vast complex that caters for 20,000 worshippers. The main hall has a grand chandelier that weighs eight tonnes and a one-piece carpet from Iran, it has 38 colours, weighs 21 tonnes and was made by 600 women weavers over four years. Like other buildings in Oman, the complex is thoroughly modern, but is distinctly Arab in character.
Driving around Oman is also a comfortable experience as the majority of roads look as is they have probably only just be completed. The truth is that they probably have.
But alongside the new roads, the old dirt tracks remain. That's Oman for you – tradition with a modern twist.
Monday, December 7, 2009
A little bit of stylish Britain in the sun
I'm sitting in Costa Coffee, the sky is blue and from my seat I have a ringside view of a beautiful, long stretch of sandy beach. No, I'm not on a day out in Weston-Super-Mare with a pair of rose tinted specs, but in Muscat, the capital of beautiful Oman. But sitting in Costa enjoying free wi-fi and listening to Shaggy, while expats come in for their morning latte, reminds me of home.
To get to Oman you fly over Iraq, 100 or so miles across the water is Iran and in the neighbouring two countries (Yemen and Saudi Arabia) there's a border war going on. But Oman couldn't be more peaceful - it actually feels a lot safer than many English cities in the evening (I have lived in Hull don't forget!). The people are also really friendly and you don't get the feeling that they are out to rip off tourists.
It, is of course, the discovery of oil that has totally transformed this country. In the 1970s life expectancy was around 47, there were just three schools and one hospital (with 26 beds). Now there are literally thousands of schools and healthcare is on par with (if not better than) the West. Things have moved on so much that life expectancy now stands at over 70.
Unlike some of the other countries in the Gulf region, traditions are still important. Locals still by their food in souks or markets. They await with excitement as the fish arrives in the mornings. Men wear long white tunics and decorated flat caps. And there is a big emphasis to preserve the country's heritage; huge amounts are being spent repairing Portugese forts from the 1500s for example.
But you still can't miss the shopping malls on the main road in from the airport. The illuminated signs from international names like Next, KFC, Pizza Express and Starbucks stand out. Then of course there all the international hotels, like the Intercontinental and Holiday Inn, which are popular with expats and visitors alike because they are the only places to get a beer.
Don't get me wrong, Oman is not some overdeveloped construction site (there's a maximum eight storey rule in place), it's far classier than that and tourism is in its infancy.
I'm going to finish my latte and enjoy a walk down the empty sandy beach. It won't be long until the hoards find out you can get a decent latte in the sun.
To get to Oman you fly over Iraq, 100 or so miles across the water is Iran and in the neighbouring two countries (Yemen and Saudi Arabia) there's a border war going on. But Oman couldn't be more peaceful - it actually feels a lot safer than many English cities in the evening (I have lived in Hull don't forget!). The people are also really friendly and you don't get the feeling that they are out to rip off tourists.
It, is of course, the discovery of oil that has totally transformed this country. In the 1970s life expectancy was around 47, there were just three schools and one hospital (with 26 beds). Now there are literally thousands of schools and healthcare is on par with (if not better than) the West. Things have moved on so much that life expectancy now stands at over 70.
Unlike some of the other countries in the Gulf region, traditions are still important. Locals still by their food in souks or markets. They await with excitement as the fish arrives in the mornings. Men wear long white tunics and decorated flat caps. And there is a big emphasis to preserve the country's heritage; huge amounts are being spent repairing Portugese forts from the 1500s for example.
But you still can't miss the shopping malls on the main road in from the airport. The illuminated signs from international names like Next, KFC, Pizza Express and Starbucks stand out. Then of course there all the international hotels, like the Intercontinental and Holiday Inn, which are popular with expats and visitors alike because they are the only places to get a beer.
Don't get me wrong, Oman is not some overdeveloped construction site (there's a maximum eight storey rule in place), it's far classier than that and tourism is in its infancy.
I'm going to finish my latte and enjoy a walk down the empty sandy beach. It won't be long until the hoards find out you can get a decent latte in the sun.
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