Wednesday, March 31, 2010

The shackles of a colonial past

The Imperial Hotel in Delhi is a calm oasis away from the hustle and bustle of the busy bazaars. After passing through three security check points, you reach a glistening cream and gold themed lobby laden with chandeliers. Well-dressed guests wait for their private drivers in the lounge areas while others enjoy a cocktail in the '1911' bar (named after the date New Delhi was announced as British India's capital – although construction of the city was not complete until 1931.)
Built in 1933, the Art Deco Imperial provides a link with Delhi's colonial past. The corridors form a massive art gallery, with painting after painting showing British supremacy. They capture the pomp and circumstance of the Viceroy's receptions, others show the British troops crushing the Indians in the 1857 mutiny. Locals that are pictured are reduced to subordinate roles.
Yet, there are no paintings in the Imperial that capture India winning independence in 1947. From the depicted images and the way the hotel provides a totally Western service for its guests, you could be led to believe that British Raj was still in existence. That maybe explains the high security getting into the complex – this, after all, would be a target for anyone wanting to attack India's colonial past.
Outside the comforts of the hotel things are much more hectic. For example, the bartering in the bazaars is about as far from the British shopping experience as you will find. But look around and the clues to British rule can still be seen in New Delhi. The heart of the city is a large area called Connaught Place, here Robert Tor Russel designed in 1932 an imitation of the grand Royal Crescent in Bath. The buildings may now be crumbling through lack of maintenance, but the symbol of British mock Georgian architecture is here. Away from the crazy drivers, Central Park is a lovely calm place to relax for a few hours. This also couldn't be more British, with a band stand and iron railings around the lawns similar to those you find in London parks.
This is the area to head for the best shops and Western brand names. Its where the expats hang out alongside wealthy, well to do Indians. The impoverished Delhi suburbs may only be a few miles away, but the feel of the place still has echoes of London many, many miles away. There is clearly more of India for the independence movement to remove from the shackles of the colonial past.

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